Fun-bus rattles it's way down the east coast,
taking in a spot of Sailfishing and a spot of
bewilderment up a jungle river- thankfully taken under the wing of some of
the kindest people I've ever met. But only because I don't think
they classified me as either "wildlife" or "edible"...
the bus at Kuala Rompin bus park after another seven hour excursion down the
coast, I was left standing with my embarrassing heap of luggage as usual,
looking round in each direction wondering where I should go to try and
find a room. I saddled everything up and walked gingerly towards a Durian
vendor who was set up on the concrete of the bus park, awaiting the moment when the
stench-field would hit me.
"Hotel here?" I asked.
The vendor pointed back over his shoulder
without even appearing to register my presence.
And so I crossed the road behind him,
scanning the street for a hotel- and sure enough, just 200 metres away was
the Hotel Sri Rompin. I wobbled into the reception area, and met the
Chinese owner sat behind his desk, scanned the inexpensive tariff, and asked for a
"room cheap cheap". He nodded and took me upstairs and showed me
into what was actually a very nice, clean room with two beds, a shower and
an air con unit. "This'll do very nicely" I remember thinking to
myself, and with a huge sigh of relief dropped my bags onto one of the
of random melon placement".
Rompin turned out to be quite a relief in many ways. Not only did I now
have a bed with a mattress on it, but also, having a high population of
Chinese, this meant it had several Chinese restaurants. This in turn meant
that aside from there being a lot of very apprehensive local wildlife, a nice cold beer would be available.
This was something which I hadn't seen
since leaving the Perhentian Islands, with the vast majority of northern
and eastern Malaysia being mostly Islamic and therefore very 'dry'.
a lovely meal that evening and a few ice cold lagers, while all
around me Chinese families wolfed down big bowls full of miscellaneous
animal parts with noodles and rice, and Everton versus Man City in some Asian
pre-season tournament played on the TV in the corner, dubbed over with
Chinese commentary of course.
This was also the first football (I use the
term loosely...) I'd seen in
absolutely ages and it was later to give way to some bizarre programme
which I had no chance of deciphering, where there were these blokes,
right, some with the ears of an elf and a nose like a pig, who could float
in mid-air for 30 seconds while carrying out an surreal array of
martial arts moves and sending lightning flashes and explosions back down
to earth. I briefly wondered what the hell they'd put in my sweet and sour.
However, what was more bizarre to me, was watching all the people's
faces in the restaurant, as they sat, every one of them glued to the
screen, mouths slowly and absent-mindedly chewing their food, as for some
reason they became deeper and deeper engrossed in the insanity occurring on
strange. Leaving the restaurant, I had a wander around the dark streets of the
town, which, apart from the few restaurants dotted about, were pretty much
deserted. However, I did notice there was a fishing tackle shop there, and
I made a note that this would be my first port of call in the morning.
The weather closed in as it came
over a bit Kuala Thumpin'.
And so it was that after a coffee and
roti, I dropped into the shop. I was immediately surprised at the
amount and quality of the stock there... and the prices!
I was soon
stocking up on some cheap wire, leader line, lures and Gamakatsu and Owner
hooks. In fact I ended up with quite a pile on the counter - so much so
that the nice lady running the place gave me a discount.
I asked if there
were any boats in the area which would take me out fishing on the ocean.
She nodded, and immediately got onto her phone.
After a short
conversation, I was asked if I could come back to the shop to meet 'the
man' later on. I nodded back myself, and she rattled off a few more words
and clicked the phone off.
"12 o'clock ok?". And of course
it was, after all, I had absolutely nothing else to do that day. Returning
later to meet Steven-Paul (I
guess that wasn't his real name...) and using the same bartering technique
I've mentioned before, I managed to get two days on the deep blue ocean for the
price of, well, as it turned out, one and a quarter.
I was well pleased with that,
since the first price seemed to be only a bit more than what I expected
and I thought I'd try my luck. I also made sure I mentioned 'bluewater',
'ocean', 'Sailfish', 'Mackerel' and, laughingly, 'no messing about' during
the negotiation process. I was ensured that there would be 'no messing
about', there was a friendly shake of hands, and off he went on his moped,
disappearing in a smoke screen of yellow dust.
Next morning I was up and about early, and thanks
to a local bloke who saw me walking in the direction of the jetty and
pulled over to give me a lift, I was only five minutes late. Steven-Paul was already on the boat and I was impressed to see
fairly modern, white fibreglass boat of about 25 feet in length, complete
with what seemed to be an almost new 130HP Johnson outboard on the back.
However, this didn't mean that we could get out to the fishing spot
without stopping half-way out to mess about with the fuel line- after all,
there had to be something - if only to uphold protocol!
And this week's entry for the "F***ed Outboards Of Asia Gallery" comes from the South
Once we got out onto the ocean, we spent half
an hour collecting some scad and slimy mackerel for bait, and then finally
we sped off southwards in the direction of the Sailfish zone.
Two rods were rigged up ready to go, with a
TLD and 55kg braid on a 20/30 class outfit for one, and a very brave set
up of a heavy spinning rod, Calcutta 700 and 50lb braid on the other- in
the name of getting a bit of a fight out of it(!). The end rig was the
same for both, with a couple of metres of 80lb mono tipped with a size
6/0 Owner circle hook, which was baited with a nose-hooked livebait and
suspended beneath a balloon tied on some 4 metres up the line. I dropped
out the first bait, and began feeding out line with the tide as we drifted
on the deep blue sea.
The balloon zig-zagged from left to right slightly,
but eventually reached a position some 30 metres down from the boat.
"Is this far enough?" I asked.
"Yes, that's good".
And with that I briefly felt the trembling of a panicking bait before the
braid was savagely pulled from between my fingers.
"Strike!!!" shouted Steven-Paul.
The sun is shining, I'm sweating my little
off, and there's a mental fish on the line... Living my dream. Corny eh?
before I could even engage the reel's lever drag, I looked up to sea a
large Sailfish in mid-air, shimmering and
luminescent in the morning sunshine. The image hung, seemingly suspended
in time in my mind's eye for a brief second before crashing back into the
waves. I wound down furiously to set the hook, but found that the bait was
gone, and with it the chance of the first fish of the day.
"No problem" said Steven-Paul,
"Many more here. Many more chance".
And so another balloon was readied and another Scad sent out to play with
"My record 28 Sailfish one day. We send out bait, then we play fish.
Some day like
that", assured SP.
Five hours later we were sat there bobbing
about on the swell of the South China Sea waiting for the next one, despite
numerous prayers to the Chilliwack Fish Gods.
Just when I was thinking that it was going
to be (another) of those days, I looked round to see the balloon on my
lighter rod sliding from right to left at an un-natural rate of knots. As
it drew my attention, I was suddenly aware of a large bill slicing through
the surface not so very far behind it!
"Look out!" And I quickly pulled
the rod from the holder just as the ratchet began to hum it's tune. I
clicked into gear and wound furiously, and thanks to the no-stretch braid,
within a matter of milliseconds the whole set-up locked up solid, the rod
folded over to the corks, and the line started to empty from the
an alarming rate of knots, the irate Sail
bursting from the surface three or four times on
the bounce some 60 or 70 metres back from the boat. The fish did
little else to begin with, and even swam
back towards us, allowing almost all the line to be wound back
onto the spool.
"He friendly fish this one", observed Steven-Paul.
Then it woke up. A hundred metres, then a hundred and fifty metres
of braid melted in no time at all:
"Hey! Come back Mr Sailfish! We only want to say
hello!!!" laughed the now-happy skipper.
"Ha bloody ha... I've got to wind that bastard back...!"
Would that be a Sailfish then...?
Sure is. Note snapped rod at the side. The third time it has
snapped on me with this rod- at various points, and this time finally with a fish on the end, which is
at least an
improvement. It's now in
the skip for good. "Blood, Sweat & Tears" was the logo
written near the handle. No kidding.
'Kinell! Time to go home. And boatman, please, whip those snails.
And that's how it went for the next 20 minutes,
great fun on the light tackle, and in due course there was a beautifully
lit-up fish circling the boat, almost in reach of the leader. It made one
final dive, and I thumbed the spool gently to hold it in place... then with a
loud pistol crack the rod split clean in two. Great. A brief panic, since
initially I thought it was the line that had given way, but luckily
the leader was taken, the Sail brought aside, and then held by the bill in the
water while I got
the camera ready. She was hauled aboard for
half a dozen quick snaps, then swiftly dropped back over and held in the
tidal flow until, with a pulse of the tail, it ploughed back deep into the
blue, leaving a happy angler back on deck. The crap
travel rod had been given a decent burial.
bait on the surviving rod was fed out again. We were now in the zone, and
in minutes another Sailfish made a launch for it.
you wan umbrella?!" Cheeky kids shelter from the storm back at the
As I set the hook, we were treated to the spectacular sight of
another four or five Sails bursting from the surface in all directions, we
even saw one rocket past the boat right under the rod tip. In fact I
wasn't even sure which one I was connected to for a while, but whichever
it was, it was certainly a maniac, as it stripped metre after metre after
metre of the heavy braid from the spool at a quite alarming rate. After
several leaps, another couple of awe inspiring runs and a lot of sweating
by yours truly, suddenly everything went slack, and looking at the frayed
braid it was easy to tell that somehow it had become damaged and worn
through on something- possibly the Sailfish's rough bill as it leapt and
twisted. Never mind eh?
After this, I
told the skipper that I wanted him to get the next fish so I could get
some photo's of leaping Sailfish during the fight. He looked a little
surprised at this, but agreed anyway. And sure enough, the reel drag soon
told us that we were in action again and Steven-Paul tightened up and
leaned into the fish. It went airborne immediately, and after a few
minutes, for some reason the hook came out. I looked across, shaking my
head and tutting loudly; "Amateur", I smiled as the rig was
checked and readied to go out again.
Again, we didn't have to wait long before we were in action again, and
again the fish went absolutely crazy and eventually shook its way free-
"Have you done this
Always nice to start the day off with a
little bit of squid on the end first thing!
Inset: Whole live squid rigged ready to go and meet a Cobia.
Or take it's stool at the Fat Chance Saloon as it turned out.
Out went another bait,
and as we waited for the next action, we were suddenly aware that the sky
had become ominously dark over in the direction of dry land.
come. We need go", said the skipper. But even then, as he reeled in
the bait, very slowly, it was taken by yet another Sailfish... which he
missed on the strike. I looked at him with a raised eyebrow: "Stick
to driving the boat mate", and we both burst out laughing.
As we cut
our way through the worsening waves on the way back, we were treated to
the breath-taking sight of a twister forming over the ocean, even stopping
the boat briefly to take a few photos. But as the tropical rainstorm
dumped its load as we hit the jetty, for once in my life I was actually
pleased to have packed in fishing a bit early!
day I was to fish with Steven-Paul's brother, Sky, and as we spoke on the
way out to sea, I asked him if we could fish for other species, having had
some Sailfish action the previous day. We quickly decided to spend the
early part of the day after Spanish Mackerel, and then swap to bottom
fishing for large Cobia later in the tide. I was particularly interested
in the Cobia, since Sky told me he had personally taken them to over 60
kilos in the area we were heading to. And that would seriously hurt.
did the usual bait catching routine for half an hour or so, which included
jigging about some squid lures and taking three of them. These were also
placed alive into the bait well ready for later use- once they had been
allowed to empty their ink-sacs all over the side of the boat. My remaining rod was rigged with a wire
trace an large lure ready to go, and Sky rigged his rod the same,
with a pretty well
(Starter motor or
something this time...)
Malaysian Ikan Alu Alu that stayed on the hooks.
battered and rusty looking lure on the business end. And off
we went through the monotonous motions of trolling. During the morning we
had several hits from 'cudas, all of which dropped off, but none of which
were very big. But then finally we were into a very different kind of
animal. The drag on my TLD screamed at me as I tried to relinquish the
grip of the rod holder, Sky gunning the boat forward briefly in a fog of
spray and engine fumes to help set the hook. Once in action, the drag
continued to squeal at the same rate, the spool emptying as I gazed down
at it. Eventually it ground to a halt, I gained a few yards, and then off
it went again, yours truly really starting to enjoy the scrap... And then
the bloody thing fell off! I couldn't believe it.
"Oooh. Big Mackerel this one",
noted Sky, just to make me feel even better. Cheers.
I eventually made one of the Barracuda stick on the the
Sky shocking me by releasing the thing alive, and then the hooks on Sky's
battered lure were straightened out by something else unseen before we
decided to go and sit it out for a Cobia.
Oh yes... Spot on again.
A live squid was rigged on a long flowing
trace- once we had located the necessary rocky patch on the sonar- and was
then dropped down to the ocean floor and then wound up to about 2 metres
from the rocks.
And there we sat for the next four hours.
Nothing happened at all. Exciting eh? So we tried the last half an hour or so after
Sailfish on a slow troll with a livebait out the back, and had two
chances, both of which rejected the bait immediately before the hook could
be set. The only thing of any interest that happened all session was when a
pod of dolphins briefly accompanied us back to port at the end of the day!
Perhaps I shouldn't have put all my eggs in
the one basket by sitting it out for a big Cobia. Still, you don't know
unless you try eh?
realised that with only another four or five days left in Malaysia before
my flight out (which had already been rearranged for the second time), my
options now were becoming a bit limited. I had heard several times during
my travels here that the Kelah (Malaysian Red Mahseer) was certainly king
of fishes for the people, and having been shown a couple of pictures, I
could certainly see why. Now one of those I would dearly like to catch.
After consultation with the two lads at the internet place in town, Aimeem
and Maman, with my map of Malaysia laid out on the table, I decided to
head off to a small (well, tiny) town called Sungai Lembing, where I could see
that two jungle rivers converged. What I would find there, and whether any
of it was fishable I just didn't know, but I was prepared to give it a
look on the off chance that I may encounter a Kelah.
Waiting for the big pull and a Kelah at Sungai Lembing, but in reality
probably more likely to get blown up or a spot of cyanide poisoning!
journey itself was pretty unremarkable, except for meeting a mentalist westerner in the form of
Adam from Sunderland - a
bloke of about 60 years of age who had decided to cycle from Singapore to
Delhi for some obscure reason or another, after his missus had divorced him and
taken him to the cleaners.
Unfortunately he had just made it across
the border from Singapore into Southern Malaysia and fell asleep in a bus
stop, and then when he woke in the morning someone had ridden off on his
complete with the panier bags full of his worldly possessions. Sounded to
me like his ex-missus was obviously stalking him. I was just
starting to feel a little sorry for him, when he mentioned living in a
hippy commune in Spain a few years back. I remembered just in time: "Never trust a
hippy". I did just about manage to buy him a cup of tea at Kuantan
bus station though.
I negotiated a price with a taxi driver at
the station- once I had ascertained that no buses ran to Sungai Lembing-
and we set off on the journey into the wilderness, the driver questioning
me on why the hell I wanted to go there. A couple of hours later we were
idling through the dusty streets, which were lined with ramshackled wooden
and corrugated iron buildings on each side of the road. Thankfully the
taxi man had taken it upon himself to help me find a place to stay,
stopping and asking the few pedestrians on the street, each one seemingly
giving directly the opposite directions to the previous one! If it hadn't
have been for him, I would certainly have been up crap-creek without a
After much messing about, we finally pulled up in the yard of a
place which was clearly the town's one and only hotel- even though it was
a couple of kilometres out of the village, and again my taxi driver spoke
to the Chinese bloke who was sat chain smoking under the shade of a tree.
He quickly dialled and spoke into his mobile phone, and then gestured that
we should sit and wait. The lady owner pulled up on her moped a few
minutes later, and after some wheeling, dealing and a lot of arbitrary
translation, I ended up with a room for a couple of nights. Taxi man left,
handing me over his card and asking me to give him a call when I was ready
to head back to civilisation - which I was sure to do because I don't think
anyone else could have found me!
watched the taxi disappear down the road, and went to sit in the shade
with the Chinaman.
Palm Oil Nut used as bait for the elusive (non-existent) Kelah.
Nathan in action - a very good angler!
Polo gets to grips with his princess.
"Nice flippers, honey".
Kenny shows off his prawn for the camera:
"Onry vewy smaw one though".
"How you find this place?" he
"Point finger on map" I shrugged.
"Why you here?"
"Fishing. Ikan Kelah".
He smiled and shook his head.
Kelah here now. Later in year. October. November".
"Great", I thought.
As we sat
exchanging pleasantries in the bright sunshine, a big 4x4 truck pulled up
in the yard, and another Chinaman and an Indian bloke got out.
"Me Polo", said my new
"This my friend. Nathan and Kenny. You name?"
He then rabbited on to his two buddies, and
I heard the word Andy crop up towards the end, to which they smiled and
nodded in my direction, and then the word 'Kelah', which made them look in
my direction again, and this time they laughed openly. Excellent. I was
pleased to see that my tentative quest to encounter the Malaysian Red Mahseer
could inspire such involuntary mirth.
it turned out, Kenny, Polo and Nathan (stage names I'm sure...) were
of the most generous people I have met. They took me hunting for prawns at
night down on one of the rivers, and each meal time they would
ask me to join them, and they would drive into the village to their
favourite restaurant. To be honest it looked like it shouldn't even be open,
with bricks and rubble laid on the floor, pieces of wood, broken furniture
and twisted reinforcing bars littered about, and an open gutter flowing
through under the tables. Yet the food was surprisingly great,
give or take the odd chicken's foot floating in the surface film of the
sauce. And as much as I offered, they refused point blank to accept any
money by way of a contribution to the bill.
The restaurant was a seat of entertainment
all on its own, with various local personalities coming and going all
evening - such as the local bloke who turned up with a sack full of huge
live frogs, which my new friends bought from him before he even got to the
kitchen out the back. And I
remember trying not to burst out laughing as I watched a bloke who looked
about 112 years old in the corner, as he tried to eat a bowl rice
with his chopsticks, with the added hurdles of Parkinson's disease and
a toothless set of gums
until his table looked like someone had been feeding
pigeons on it.
During our meal in the restaurant they
called over the Frogman and discussed something in tongues, and then turned to
me with a smile;
"This man take you to river tomorrow.
He know place for Kelah". Now this was a turn up for the books. And
after further deliberation, they even extended their stay by a
day so that Nathan could come and fish with me. Absolute top blokes eh?
morning we met up with Frogman, who had been and procured a sack of palm
oil nuts - apparently the best bait for the omnivorous Kelah, and set off
in the direction of one of the rivers, passing down a two-wheel track for
several kilometres through the jungle. We finally stopped at a clearing,
unloaded the gear and wound our way down into the valley, sweating
profusely in the intense heat and humidity of the canopy.
We crossed the
river precariously, and set up station on a gravel bar in mid-stream, at
the point where the two sections of fast flowing water reconvened. Frogman
took some palm oil nut and put it in a separate sack, then smashed them to
a pulp with some rocks, this was then
Nathan and some rambutan sit it out for a bite.
anchored under a rock in the flow to
set a trail of scent down the river and hopefully draw the Kelah up to
All looked good on the beautiful, steaming jungle river, but unfortunately it just wasn't to be. I tried several
hook and leader combinations, stationary baits, moving baits and different
sizes of baits- all to no avail (although a few small barb species and the
like were caught on worms from the margins). Kenny came to pick us up in
the evening, and as darkness descended, we were once again soaked to the
skin as a really spectacular storm swept down the valley, huge bolts of
lightning seemingly crashing all around our heads as we skidded and
slipped our way through the mud back up the tracks to where the truck had been left.
At least we'd tried.
breakfast at the restaurant the
next morning, before the boys set off for home, I rang the taxi man for my
trip back to Kuantan, and some of the local blokes came over for a word. One
of them spoke a bit of English:
fishing Kelah in river?"
"Yes", I replied, "but catching
"Ahhh. River not good now. Two year ago many
Kelah in river. Then men in village dynamite and put poison. Now no Kelah".
Wonderful. So I had been fishing at the
wrong time of year in a river that no longer held any of the fish that I
was actually trying to catch anyway. No wonder the fishing was slow... But
you know, I still had a great time, marooned in the jungle, but
under the wing of three of the nicest blokes you could meet.
I said goodbye to
Polo, Kenny and Nathan with a little flurry of
handshakes before they headed off back to the city, their truck looking
like the circus was coming to town - bursting with canisters
of live prawns, cages full of exotic birds and sacks bustling with those
huge live frogs, and then waited for my taxi to turn up. Some 12 hours
later I was back in Kuala Lumpur for the final time for a day or two, from
which I would be heading off to Australia (via Singapore); land of beer, crocs and Barramundi. Should be
good. I hope.
tinggal Malaysia, as they say in these parts. I knew I was gonna miss it.