- long page warning I'm
afraid. This load of words is mainly about murder, mayhem and pursuing monster fish out on the high seas up
here on the Great Barrier Reef from Cairns in sunny Australia. So if
you have no interest in such frivolous activities, I apologise- maybe you'd
be better off waiting until next time something goes wrong and I can't get
out on the water again! Either that or just look at the pictures. Which is
what I'd probably do myself, to be quite honest.
to Planet Marlin".
The cast: first time Marlin novices
Steve "Sensational-Rambozo" Erdelyi from Darwin, Josh
"Pretty Amazing" Conquest from Devon and Andy "My
Life Is Shit" Pearson from that hotbed of blue-water fishing,
Spalding, Lincolnshire, England, along with Cairns residents Tim "Get
out of my way NOW!" Brown, and our omnipresent skipper and
eco-warrior Simon "Just Kill The Bloody Thing" Spurr.
It's eight o'clock in the morning,
we're on the boat- the 46ft Platinum- and we're heading off out onto
the Linden Bank, Barrier Reef Branch- hopefully to make a few Marlin
withdrawals over the next nine or ten days, on what I hoped would
prove to be one of the angling adventures of my lifetime. The sun is
shining, winds are light, the Marlin have just started arriving on
their annual migration to this part of the world, we've refuelled
with a small mountain of Baked Beans, Pot Noodles and loo roll, two thousand
litres of diesel (which in the current climate went up 20 cents a
litre from the time we turned the pump on to getting the tanks
full), and the excitement amongst the anglers on board
is almost tangible as we thread our way up the channel out of port
"What do you reckon Steve?"
"Sensational mate. Sen-bloody-sational".
the channel into the ocean, the twin 750hp diesel engines opened up into their pounding
rhythm below decks, and I made my way
up to the bridge, watching Cairns disappear back onto the horizon
and beyond. Turning to face the wide open spaces of the Coral Sea and South
Pacific unfold, I wondered what the next ten days on the high seas
would hold for us, and the brainless grin I seem to wear for much of my
waking hours these days was perhaps even a little wider than normal. I glanced
at Steve, and the look on his face just about matched mine I guess.
Christmas morning as a six year old all over again.
First mission, catch some bait. Although
we had freezers partially stocked on board - numerous Queenfish,
Mackerel, Tarpon and the like all individually bagged and ready to go, it
was still important that we ensured our supply for the duration as
best possible. This was easy as pie once Simon had put us in the
right area, and a string of Scad and Rainbow Runners skittered
aboard on a variety of plastic skirt lures and feathers which we
Ready to leave The Pier at Cairns.
...and we're off!
Scadman. A morning dragging
plastic and feathers about and bait is not a problem.
through the ocean at speed.
Within a few hours the bait
freezers were nicely filled and we could get on with the serious
business of trying to get amongst some billfish for our first
afternoon of big-game fishing out beyond the reef.
Our deckie and
playground supervisor, Tim, appointed Steve as first into the Marlin
chariot, so to speak, with yours truly second and Josh to follow,
should a marlin be raised to the baits- these being a Scad rigged as
a skip-bait to skim across the surface of the waves, and a Queenfish
rigged with a lead-
nose end to act as a swim-bait a little under
the surface of the waves. Cover your options... Once the lines were fed out to their working position
120 feet behind the boat, and the line tags clipped into the
outriggers, we sat back, relaxed (as far as was possible), and relied on Simon to get us in the right place at
the right time. This was something I anticipated may take some
I was wrong again. Within an hour of rolling along the top
of the swells at trolling speed, I was mesmerised, watching the Scad
doing as skip-baits do on the left hand side, when a shout from
the bridge broke the trance:
Rambozo drops the anchor on it in mid-flight! "Come here,
The engines are gunned, the hook is
set, the fish-turbo kicks in... and a Black Marlin greyhounds
across the waves...
"Right side!! Right
A dark shape had ghosted in just
behind where the bait had been. The dacron snapped from
the outrigger clip and fluttered down in
slow motion, almost like gossamer in the wind. Tim was on the rod in a nanosecond,
the ratchet on the 130 class Fin Nor reel screeched a steady
"He's got it! Simon!! Now!!! Go,
The things I can remember about it
all after that? The deep growl of the engines, the boat's forward
inertia setting the hook, the pained squeal of the reel's drag,
palls of diesel exhaust filling the air. A brief moment of panic
when Tim placed the rod into the fighting chair to find that Steve
had sat a little too far back for the clips to reach the reel;
"Move forward! Steve! Move forward!! Steve!! FORWARD!!! NOW!!!",
then screaming more directions to the remainder of us novices... "get that rod
in, get that rigger down, turn the chair, wind, wind, wind...keep
bloody winding!!", while Josh and I dithered around the deck
like a pair of clowns, not quite sure what the heck we were really
supposed to be doing.
After the initial panic, things
calmed down aboard ship as it became clear that the fish was not one
of the true monsters for which the Linden Bank is famous. This gave
me a chance to grab the camera and try to catch some of the action
on memory card, and as luck had it, only seconds after clambering up
to the bridge the fish decided to go crazy, a bounding, greyhounding,
airborne burst which I managed to put the shutter around a couple of
times (more by luck than judgement), before the hawser-tight line
span the Marlin head-over-heels back into the the deep blue.
"Come here son! Behave!" laughed Rambozo after dropping
that particular fish-anchor.
grapples with a Rainbow Runner. Top bait!
A big Wahoo that didn't get
away with it for Josh.
After a few more minutes of back and forth,
the fish was brought alongside, Tim grabbing the leader and jabbing
a tag into the shoulder, before the leader was cut and we watched
the fish- still lit up in bright, luminescent blue- disappear
off back into the depths with a flick of it's tail. It was as simple
as that(!). We had Marlin. Despite the experienced element of the
crew declaring that at 200 to 250lbs the fish was "only a
baby", Steve was delighted to have tagged and released his
first, and the rest of us were just as happy to have got some early
success under our belts, being a confidence booster for the rest of
the journey to come.
My turn in the chariot. I recall
feeling a certain amount of anguish as I paced the decks watching the
baits out to the stern. It was a feeling like the one I'd had a few years ago doing
a bungee jump from a tower crane over the Thames in
London when the tide was out. Along the lines of 'do I really want to put
myself through this?'. But I'd done the bungee jump and managed not to end
up wedged in a shopping trolley, so therefore I would survive being beaten
up for fun by a thousand pound Marlin. Of this I was fairly sure (ish!).
The other concern I had was to not screw the whole thing up in one of the
multitude of ways it seemed that one could screw these things up. Screwing
up being something for which the Eco-Warrior and playground supervisor
would have had all of us tied to an outrigger and beaten to a pulp with a
flying gaff. After the mandatory bollocking, of course.
Settling in for the long wait, I was
surprised that it took only a short period of time before another billfish
decided to attack one of the baits. This time, the fish came adrift before
the rod could even be placed into the chair, and upon inspection it seemed
from the state of the stripped flesh on the bait that the Marlin had got
itself bill-wrapped. This is a situation where as the fish attacks, it
tries to smack the bait with it's rough bill, but instead of knocking the
soft bait off keel and eating it, somehow it manages to get it twisted
around the bill and miss the hook completely.
A new bait was fed out the
back, and away we trolled again, only for a short while, as quickly
another billfish homed in behind a Scad. Maybe the same one which had
previously been bill-wrapped, since it was much more cautious, eyeing
everything suspiciously before deciding against an easy meal and melting
away from view, while I sat in the chariot with jangling nerves, willing it
to just get on with it and eat the bloody thing!
A beautiful, lit-up Marlin makes
another attempt to throw the hook.
One more opportunity came
our way that afternoon- a lovely, black-as-coal fish of perhaps 500 pounds
slicing down a swell to grab a skip-bait off the surface. I strapped
myself into the chariot again, ready for the big heave, and watched as the
engines gunned and the majestic creature threw itself completely airborne,
a maelstrom of saltwater foam exploding as it twisted, ejecting the hook
and bait and catapulting it some 20 metres in a somersault through the air. Another
chance missed, but still an exciting thing to experience.
"That one was a bit more like it"
noted Simon from up above.
Wahoo worms squirming on the decks.
All of them have these things in their gut. Nice. Come to think of
it, I reckon Josh probably had a colon full of them as well.
the sun dipped towards the horizon, the boat was pointed back behind
the reef into quieter waters, and after washing off all the equipment and
waltzing down some very welcome food, some great fun was had with
some light tackle and chunks of fish. It seemed that the bait barely
hit bottom before it was seized by any one of the hordes of reef
species waiting below. Spangled Emperors, Painted Sweetlips,
Snapper, Moses Perch, Triggerfish and other brightly coloured
species coming into the boat every minute
or so. A small Potato Cod also grabbed my bait and hooked itself,
and then snapped the rod I bought in Malaysia clean in two as I hung
on to keep it out of the reef. 3 rods down and 3 to go in my travel
Then a nice sized
'cuda grabbed a chunk of mackerel on my hook-
luckily the 4/0 circle lodged in the very corner of it's mouth where
it couldn't bite free. Suddenly a school of hooligan Big Eye Trevally
gatecrashed the scene like a bunch of skinheads on the rampage. I
quickly changed rigs, one of them falling to a black surface popper
somewhere out there in the pitch darkness: one minute all I could
hear was the "bloop, bloop, bloop" as I worked the lure,
the next there was crash like a brick being thrown into the
sea, and before I knew what was going on my Baitrunner was passing on
a very urgent message that there was something even more unstable on the other
end of the line!
be getting the picture by now- it really was fish soup down there, and
if anyone has the impression that life on a coral reef is all cute and
cuddly like on that Nemo film... well, please forget that particular
theory, because there is no cuddling going on down there. Everything is
food for something else, and if you're not watching your tail, then
you're gonna lose it!
Add to this the occasional
hook up with a "Common Going The Other Way Fish", "the other
being the reef, and you have a great evening's entertainment (if you
like fishing, that is). As Tim and I stood and fished and supped
cold beers, watching swarms of squid light up patches of the ocean
beneath us, suddenly in the black water just to the side a
huge void opened up in the waves, a colossal shark of some sort or
another clearly pursuing some hapless creature or other to it's
doom. "Yup", declared Tim, "We're gonna need a bigger
A rod-busting Potato Cod, and only a little fella too, as
far as they go.
I scoffed breakfast early the next
morning, I managed several other fish on the chunks of bait -
including a Paddletail and a lovely Coral Trout. These, I have been told, are about
the best eating fish about, but unfortunately I wasn't able to find
out for myself, since due to one of the regular reef closures in
these parts all reef fish are to be returned alive immediately.
Never mind eh? I'm sure I'll survive.
The early part of the day, once we
had cast off, was spent
working our way around the coral bommies and the ocean side of the
reefs using a variety of lures on 30 and 50 class outfits. A
dream-like place to spend a few hours; long reaches of the bright,
iridescent, turquoise blues and
greens of the shallow reef sharply
defined against the navy blue of the deep water immediately
adjacent, and in the area we fished that day, it was certainly full of
fish. Our time there were was filled playing with the Yellowfin
Tuna, Scaly Mackerel, Spanish Mackerel and Barracuda which all
seemed intent on slicing our lures into tiny pieces, before we again headed out
onto the deep fathoms of the bank to try and track down some more
Marlin willing to attack a bait and eat it, yours truly hoping that
one would manage to stay on the hook long enough for me to, well, "feel the power", as they say.
couple of times the baits were chopped in half by sharp-toothed
critters, and a sudden burst of activity after a long period of
monotonous trolling when an enormous Spanish Mackerel launched itself at
the left hand skip-bait and missed it- it's silhouette hanging
briefly in mid-air before plunging back into the waves! It was
difficult to tell exactly what weight to put on that fish, but Tim's
estimate of in the region of 100lbs would perhaps not be too far
from the truth. As he went to wind the big reel to retrieve the bait
and check it wasn't damaged, it was suddenly very solid:
"Simon!!! Go go go!! There's
something on here!!!"
A tiny part of the Great
A different world to that from which I come.
Sometimes you have to pinch yourself.
Immediately the engines gunned to set
the hook, once more the lever drag of the reel announced that the
predator was on, and within seconds I found myself attached to my
first fish in the chariot. Wahoo are often acclaimed as the fastest
fish in the ocean, but I'll have to reserve judgement, cos with 17 kilos of
drag on a 130 class outfit they're not. Within a minute or two the
bright silver bar was gaffed boatside and brought through the door
onto the decking. It was later weighed at 55lbs, so although I was
pleased to get on the scorecard, all I wished was that I could have
nobbled it on a 30 or 50 class outfit and got my money's worth out
of the unfortunate thing!
Josh in the chair for the rest of the day, we continued our trawl of
the ocean looking for billfish. Several hours passed without event,
and Tim decided on a change. The Scad on the left was brought in and
replaced by a 15lb Tuna we had caught in the morning, nose rigged to
skip along the top. This thing made a hell of a commotion, crashing
through the waves like a miniature jet-ski and creating a wake all
of it's own. It was a bait with a captivating effect, all of us
concentrating intently on it's action, waiting for
thithe sea to open up behind it at any instant and swallowng up in a
combination of billfish and spray.Out of the blue, the dacron fluttered
down from the right hand outrigger.
"On the right! On the
right!" came the shout from the bridge. Our attention quickly
Somehow a shifty Marlin had decided
to ignore 15lbs of slapping Tuna, and had crept up to gently sip in a
small, wriggling Queenfish while we weren't looking! Unfortunately the fish was jumped yet again, before ejecting the
bait- complete with hook - yet again.
Another "Wahoodini" attack. How the hell did it get away with that?!
Tim the playground supervisor in deckie mode with his all seeing eye. There is
nowhere to hide...
Mervyn the Mental Marlin hits the gas
again, probably cos he had spotted the sharks hot on his tail.
was to prove a problem for us throughout the trip. Several times
Marlin were raised to the baits, and took them, only to avoid a
solid hook-up. And although we tried numerous combinations; J-hooks on almost instant
hooking set ups to the outriggers, circle hooks on plenty of slack
line to the outriggers, moving the hook positions on
the baits being just some of them, still the problem persisted. The possibility was
aired by the experienced element of the crew that with it being
still early in the season, the Marlin were either not hungry enough
or just not aggressive enough yet - or both.
Another regular occurrence was our
bait being bitten in two by toothed critters other than Marlin. On one day alone, 14 baits were lost to either Wahoo,
or Mackerel, with only one of them getting the hook - a lovely 'Hoo
of 72lbs which Josh wound in on a 130 outfit again. We really could
have had some great sport that day with lighter gear and smaller
baits... Just a pity we were there after a bloody Marlin! One day,
I'm gonna have a Wahoo day on 30 class gear, cos that would just be a
fantastic way to give a lever drag a workout.
Our days eventually began to follow a
pattern, with some lighter trolling in the mornings, trying for whatever could be caught for fun/bait, followed by hour after hour of trolling
the seas in search of Marlin until dusk, at which point we'd head
back to anchor behind the reef and fish for whatever came along. Us
beginners even started to have a small grasp of what we were
expected to do at times, having been chewed into shape on numerous
occasions by both skipper and deckie.
A typical exchange
can be demonstrated as follows. A fish has shown some interest the
right hand bait and pulled the line from the outrigger. Tim is on
the rod in a flash, and we're convinced we're going to have a hook
"Get that 'rigger down!!
Now!" shouts Tim. So Steve and myself both jump to attention and rush for the left hand outrigger to get that rod
in and moved out of the way.
"Not that one you pair of
one!!! It's dropped the f***ing bait!" bawls Tim, pointing up to the
right hand outrigger.
Cue bewildered looks and a shrug of shoulders
exchanged between Rambozo and myself. I mean, how were we to know?
Kinell. The result of less than 5
seconds work by the sharks on a 300 pound Marlin. If you can keep
your head while all around you are losing theirs...
"Bery muckin munny". Tim nose-rigs a Yellowfin to go and meet it's
maker. Life expectancy
from this point about two minutes thirty five seconds. Give or
There were numerous other examples, and between us we developed a theory that
the experienced side of the boat were actually really enjoying
themselves by making us Marlin Virgins feel even dumber than usual.
A difficult feat I'd admit... but they succeeded.
short while back, I mentioned the hours and hours of trolling the seas, because that
first afternoon where four
Marlin were tempted to have a pop at the
baits proved to be a little less than representative of the harsh realities of Marlin fishing... True, each day we raised at least
one to show some interest, but between bursts of animation and panic, many, many hours
were spent watching, waiting, willing something to happen. The
undulating swells rolling the boat combining with the throb and
drone of the engines at troll speed to create a hypnotic effect that
could find you miles away just at the wrong moment.
of an insomniac, I managed to keep awake, but many was the time I'd
look round to see Steve with his chin resting either on his chest or
hands... and a quick check behind the shades would find tightly
closed eyes, away with the fairies, dreaming about whatever it is
that blokes from the Northern Territory dream about, which in itself
could be terrifying enough.
Another feature of our stay out on the Coral Sea. Tim had
already forewarned me that we would certainly be encountering them,
and to this end I was quite happy, since I actually like them and
find them interesting in all sorts of ways. The attitudes of a
typical Marlin angler, however, seem to be at odds with this. As our
eco-warrior skipper reminded us on several occasions, "the only
good shark is a dead bastard". Nice.
Rambozo and a bigger version of the same which was wound in on the heavy 130
class gear by Josh.
The basis for his opinion was
demonstrated one afternoon when we finally got a Marlin to stick on
the hook. A fish of about 300lbs gave me a really nice scrap, with
tailwalking leaps, a couple of cracking runs meaning the boat had to
be hastily backed down into position on the fish, and eventually the
beautiful billfish was brought alongside as Tim wired the leader and
Josh put a tag into it's shoulder. All very nice and pretty much
Suddenly, the seemingly subdued Marlin went crazy, ripping
the leader from Tim's gloves, spinning me round in the chariot and
ripping line from the reel again. Something had clearly put the
shits up the fish, and aside from Steve gazing over the transom at
it, we couldn't work out what it could have been. Then it happened.
Huge Oceanic Whaler Sharks appeared into view- one of which looked
to be about 3 feet wide across the head. All I could make out were
the light grey shapes about 30 metres back from the stern twisting
and writhing, the line now solid between rod, reel and the frenzy. In
less than five seconds it was all over. The line fell slack and I
wound in the severed head of the Marlin, the rest of it having been
expressed his considered opinion again, that all sharks were bastard
Marlin-eaters and the all the poxy bloody things should be killed on
sight. I personally felt bad that it had
been our capture of the fish that had disabled the Marlin to such an
extent that it allowed the sharks to seize it- after all, a fit
Marlin without the hindrance of hook, line and drag would simply be too
fast to be caught by a shark- each and every time. This argument was put to the
floor, adding that they could kill every shark that swam
A beautiful Yellowfin Tuna on lighter
tackle. Bad size though... the dilemma being whether we should eat it-
with soy sauce and wasabi on it... or throw it straight out the back and let
the Marlin and Sharks eat it- with a big hook in it.
This one is called a Chinaman Cod, A.K.A. "The Galloper" cos they pull like
chuff. One that proper does
what it says on the tin!
100 metre radius of the boat every time it was out on the water, but
there would still be millions of them out there, filling their
allotted slot in the ecosystem. After a bit of debate, the final statement
on the issue went something along the lines of "if you don't like
killing fish, then don't go fishing". Ok. Whatever. I guess you
have to agree to disagree sometimes...
Scaly Mackerel. Bait. No
On strike in the chariot again, the
'shot-gun' rod, which we had out with a plastic skirt lure on to
tempt whatever pelagic species might see fit to eat it, was ripped into
life by a small Yellowfin Tuna of perhaps ten pounds in weight. A
quick decision was made to just drop it straight back out for bait,
so it was quickly rigged on a size 20/0 circle hook and 650lb BS
mono leader. Before the line had even been let all the way out,
something large and hungry had already made a meal of it, managing
to create a nasty bird's nest at the reel, which was still out of
Luckily the predator played ball and didn't continue to run
off with the bait until the over-run was untangled. Once clipped up
to it in the chair, the fish immediately and obviously lacked any of
the speed and athleticism of a Marlin, and it became clear that I was
attached to a pretty heavy shark. The runs were steady, powerful and
unswerving, but without any real urgency. And after a sweaty battle
of attrition, a Whaler Shark of some 400lbs or so laid beaten on the
surface. I was actually relieved when the thing gave one last roll
and managed to get the mono leader in it's teeth- with the obvious
result. The way I saw it, the thing would survive just fine with a
hook lodged temporarily in the corner of it's jaw, which was good. And at least this
way it saved Eco-Simon the problem of thinking of an imaginative way
to kill it.
Rambozo and his Whaler Shark. "Listen,
mate... who won the battle... eh? Come on, just tell me; who won
And a similar occurrence was only
just around the corner for Josh's next stint in the chariot, when a
very large shark chased down another live Tuna which had been sent
out for a little swim around. It had been in the water a matter of minutes,
when suddenly it leapt from the surface three or four times, a shark
hot on it's tail, and finally, with an aggressive flurry, it
disappeared and line peeled rapidly from the heavy brass reel. The fish was
hooked up without problem in plumes of spray and diesel smoke, and
Josh was immediately almost pulled to his feet in the chair. This
was a heavy one, and it steadily churned all around the boat, before
eventually crash-diving vertically to the depths and the line parted
with a crack... Yup, that was a very heavy one!
A big, fat, 400lb Whaler Shark lumbers
into view through the darkness.
tagged my first Marlin- not that there was any point in sending the
card in, Tim, by way of taking the piss, conducted a
small award ceremony the following morning. The really tasteful set
of technicolour polyester shorts, complete with Sailfish print and
'Hooking The Big One' logo were accepted with a previously unseen
level of humility(!), and immediately employed in the role of lucky
shorts. Whether they'd turn out to be lucky or not would be anyone's
guess, but anything was worth a try. As it turned out, today was
Saturday, and being the weekend more boats than normal were out searching for Black
Marlin over the Linden Bank- fourteen in all, we were later to find
After a quiet morning, the lucky
shorts began to weave their mystical powers. The skirt lure on the
shot-gun rod was seized by something a bit lively, and with Rambozo
being the elected crew member to deal with these issues at that
time, the 50lb class rod was quickly stuck into his gimball. This
Tuna was a real powerhouse, stripping an amazing amount of line from
the reel in seconds.
Then 200 metres behind the boat, the reason
became apparent, as the Tuna turned out to be a leaping Black Marlin! Much excitement, shouting, bawling and confusion ensued,
as outriggers, rods and lines were hastily retrieved and stowed.
Although Tim was pretty sure the fish would be lost on the light mono leader.
Quickly Simon backed the boat down to the fish- spumes of water and
smoke again over spilling the transom of the boat - enabling precious
line to be reclaimed onto the spool.
Steve was to have a fantastic
fight with this fish: searing runs, acrobatic leaps, stubborn episodes of holding tight in the current, and
changes of direction- one of which saw the Marlin pose in true
'Superman' fashion as it spun and took a horizontal leap literally 2
metres from the stern. I was too slow to get the
action on camera, but with a reactionary snap of the shutter, Josh
managed to catch most of the fish frozen in time. An amazing sight,
for the split second it lasted! Steve did a great job on the rod, Simon kept
adjusting the boat in just the right places, and after some
twenty minutes of hard work, the lovely Black was tagged and
released amongst much backslapping and laughter all around. I'll
have to admit I was a little envious of Steve having the fight with that
fish- it truly was one of the highlights of the trip. Even if he did
say afterwards that he wanted to shout 'Ok, Ok! Time Out, Time Out!' a couple of
good luck continued when Josh also got on the scorecard for the day,
whacking a billfish's arse in a matter of minutes as we backed down
on it and got the tag in in double quick time, Rambozo amusing us
greatly with the tag-pole by taking a couple of stabs to get it in the
fish, brandishing the thing like a Masai fella trying to chuck a
spear at an Antelope. This capture was the complete antithesis of Steve's
experience on the 50 class gear, and I confess that after
that, I actually confided to him that I'd rather have a 200 pounder on
the light gear than a monster on the heavy stuff. Putting all the
macho Marlin ego, bullshit and bravado aside, it just looked like so much more
That evening, several of the Marlin
boats were anchored up behind the reef for the night, getting ready to fish
the next day. According to Tim & Simon, this meant that two tag and release
flags simply HAD to be raised up the outrigger. After all, with two
of the four fish taken on the bank that day falling to our boat,
bragging rights needed to be exercised! Even Simon was smiling as we
cruised past the already moored Marlin boats sheltering in the lee
of Opal Reef, our two red flags flying high. If we'd had a copy of
the theme tune to Thunderbirds available, I'm sure they would have
had that blaring out over the stereo too.
"If you think you're changing
your shorts tomorrow, you've got another thing coming", ordered
our ever-cheerful skipper.
"Hello boys". Josh's picture of a posing Black
Marlin. I'm sure it gave us a wink on the way past. That's my
camera on the right, pointing right at the fish... but the arthritic trigger
finger wasn't quick enough; all I got was the tail disappearing into
Below: Bragging rights exercised as we head back behind the reef
that evening. As they say, if you've got it... then rub the other
skipper's noses right in it. (We blanked the next day. Serves
Josh "Pretty Amazing"
having the big pull with
Of course, having crowed off like
that, we got our just desserts the next day by blanking completely-
the only action to break up the hypnotic undulations of the boat
being one good sized fish that charged the skip-bait, lit up for
attack like a turquoise submarine, and looking an absolute certainty
to nail the bait... before turning away and disappearing at the very
last minute. "After the Lord Mayor's Show" and all that!
days and nights continued to follow a regular pattern, and the
night time fishing inside the reef also continued to be great fun.
Several times we managed to
The 120ft Valkyrie plays mother ship
to the Platinum for a few nights. Lifestyles of the rich and the
berley a school of Big Eye Trevally up
into the lights off the stern of the boat and catch a few of them on
chunks of Tuna- all of them hard fighting scrappers on light tackle.
And it was during one of these scraps I looked down to see a very
large, pale and ominous looking shadow following the Trevally up to
the surface in the deck lights.
"Jesus Steve- there's a bloody great shark down here mate!"
I muttered, as it slinked off and disappeared back into the
"I'll have some of that!"
replied Rambozo, and a 50lb class outfit was quickly set up with a wire
leader and a strong 14/0 hook. Another Trevally (of about 8 to 10lbs in
weight) was caught and sent out under a white balloon to see if the
shark was still patrolling the area.
One actually behaves itself at boat side - all ready for it's release.
Instincts told us that it would
be. And we were right- within a few minutes, there was a large
disturbance somewhere out there in the darkness beneath the balloon, briefly, before
it vanished with a loud, well, erm, "bosh" is probably the
best way to describe it! 28 minutes of grinding each other down
later, the shark finally gave in and waddled up beside the boat to
be roped to the side- giving mercy to Rambozo's aching arms. Simon was
now in his element, and sadly (to me) the 400lb plus Whaler Shark
was ritually despatched with a club (A.K.A. 'the donger'; as in,
"I knocked the back out of her with the donger and she went out
like a light, mate...") before being simply dumped over the side to
feed the crabs and other sharks. I'm not completely in tune with
billfishing etiquette, but to me it seemed such a
wasteful and ignominious end for such a big fish. Upon rising the
following morning there were chunks of oily shark liver floating to
the surface right near the boat, a slick flattening the surface for
hundreds of metres downtide. For some reason I can't for the life of
me fathom the logic of now, I decided it would be interesting to see what was
tearing the unfortunate shark corpse to pieces and donned a snorkel and
fins to go down and have a look. Regrettably the visibility was only
perhaps 15 metres that day, and nothing could be seen in 30 metres of
water. I briefly considered diving down as deep as I could to try
and get a better view... but then realisation dawned that I was
flapping about in the ocean where Tiger Sharks play, with a huge
Whaler Shark being ripped to pieces a few metres beneath me, it's
blood and oil berleying up every predator for miles around...
to make a sharp exit!
The next time we tried the berley for
the Trevally, the sharks really got on the scent, and on the outer
extremities of the light cast by the boat, long, slow moving, light
coloured shapes could be seen cruising pretty much continuously. A
shark bait was dropped out for them, but for some reason, all they
wanted were the tiny cubes of Tuna we were using for berley! Steve
got spooled out by one on a light spinning outfit before the backing
line broke, and three times that evening large sharks stole in on
the scene before the Trevally and ate one of my Tuna cubes with a hook in it. The first
two bit off pretty much immediately, but the last one just swam up
and ate the bait as gently as a Carp taking a Chum Mixer off the
surface of a pond... and then it just kept swimming. Realising I had fat chance of
getting the thing to the boat on the gear I was using, I watched the
expensive braid quickly disappearing from my Baitrunner: "Ten quid...
twenty quid... thirty quid..." I thought as the metres zipped
out. "Ohhhh bollocks...". So I turned the drag up to
'sunset' and hoped for the best! Luckily it then bit through the
leader and I wound 200 metres of line back onto the spool
with some relief!
A colourful remedy for a salty old sea-dog's jock-rash?
Still waiting as another day draws to a close
the blue water. Tim would call this
the 'scary time of day'.
"Ladies and gentlemen. Fresh for
this season of utility-wear on the Linden Bank, styled and brought
to you by House of Versace, Andy models the stunning new Marlin
Fishcoteque hot-pants, available in turquoise polyester, and tastefully
appointed in a sequined billfish outline, a piss-dribble-spot
and a delicate patina of Scad gism..."
That tagging moment, Rambozo goes
native with the tag-pole and Josh has his fish on the card. Nice one boys!
our last few evenings at sea, we had the luxury of a 'mothership'
for company. Josh's gainful employment (huh- call that a job?!) is
as deckie on a stunning, privately owned 120ft luxury yacht- the
Valkyrie. His captain, Martin, and crew Mark, Jo, Linda and Jim had brought the ship out to the reef
for a few days. After fishing was finished in the evening, we would
make our way back behind Opal Reef to find them and tie up alongside,
where the absurdly
generous bunch there would wine and dine us in
true style- with great food and ice cold drinks as we relaxed on
their spacious deck. We were piped aboard (well, not quite...) and
invited to take a seat.
"What can we get you to drink,
Andy?" politely asked Captain Martin.
"Erm, a G&T would be rather
nice, thank you for asking", I smiled, all tongue in cheek.
"Certainly. I'll get someone to
bring one for you". And five minutes later, a tray arrived at
my side, with a nice, big gin and tonic, ice and a slice, napkin, in a
large, straight glass. Just how I like 'em! And the one time I leave
my smoking jacket and slippers at home! All very civilised and a unique
experience for a pond-life traveller like myself. How the other half
final full day on the ocean arrived, and having rested the lucky
shorts for a couple of days (after our
"Ooof me poor Farmer
Giles..." Early induction sessions for Rambozo with the
tag-pole were not without incident...
...A tag in the right place- before he
swims off to go find a long-line to play with.
The end of another shitty day in
paradise. Sometimes I wonder just how I cope.
blank day when I had given
them another airing),
I decided it was time to blow the slime off them and dazzle some
more billfish into submission.
Rambozo was on strike for starters,
and after hours of hydro-hypnosis, at 3pm he hooked up on another
fish of some three hundred pounds, which after another spirited
tussle, was brought boat-side on the wire ready to be tagged. This
fish had other ideas though, and three times it almost pulled Tim
over the transom before he finally had to dump the leader and let it
free. With the sudden
increase in power, everything appeared to go
solid. Steve was pulled up onto his feet in the chariot.The fish
seemed to plunge vertically beneath the boat, everything seeming
considerably heavier than before, and finally the dacron gave way
again with sharp crack. Opinion was divided aboard on exactly what
had happened. Steve and myself thought that another poor Marlin had
been mullered by a large shark, but Simon and Tim thought it was
just the Marlin catching some second wind. Whatever occurred, it was
certainly an impressive show of strength, although we found it all a
little disconcerting that it was the very heavy braid that had
broken yet again. Something was clearly not right.
this disappointing loss, I slipped back into the cabin to get a
drink, feeling a bit disillusioned with it all if I'm honest. You
troll for hours, maybe hook a fish, and then it gets eaten by a
shark, simply because we put a hook in it? After all, we were
practising tag and release in the name of angling, science and conservation
weren't we? Yet of the fish we brought to the boat, although we
managed to put a tag in a few, there was no time to even check for
other tags, let alone read and record the tiny reference numbers on
the side in the name of science. From my admittedly limited experience, I'd guess the only
tags that are ever re-recorded are those that are returned once the
Marlin has had a terminal encounter with a long-liner!
I snapped out
of it and slipped back out on deck. The rods had just been
re-positioned, and it was perhaps my last turn in the chariot before
heading back to dry land. We didn't have long to wait.
"Jesus H Christ on
900lbs of incredibly fat Marlin tries to leave the
water just off the stern.
"Big fish!!! Big fish!!! On the
left!!!" came Simon's yell from the bridge. As I swiftly
dropped into the chair and readied the clips and chains for the rod,
my eyes were focused on the left hand bait. And there, as plain as
day, and even larger than life, was a huge outline of a Black
Marlin, tracking and eyeing the bait from the wake side. My heart began
to pound even harder, a slight feeling of dread mixed with exhilaration
and adrenaline. I watched, mesmerised, as coolly, languidly, the
monster fish drifted towards the bait; a metre of bill appearing and
slicing through the surface, then confidently closing around the
Scad in a tiny spatter of foam.
"Oh shit", I thought,
"it's gone and got it..." as the heavy dacron pinged out
from the clip and fluttered gently through the air before tightening
off the waves to the rod tip. The point
of no return. After all the hesitant takes,
rejected baits and missed strikes of the previous eight days, the
biggest fish we had seen turned out to be a dream- textbook almost.
Not an ounce of hesitation or panic in its demeanour at all...
until, that is, the "He's on!" shout went out from Tim,
Simon hit the throttle, and the hook went home in a fury of spray
and engine noise. As I attached the clips to the reel, I looked up
to see the enormous fish ploughing across the ocean, its bill flared
wide open, half its body clear of the surface, torso and head
twisting and thrashing to dislodge the embedded circle hook, the
still attached bait flailing around the fish's head. An apparition
the like of which I had never seen before in my life. And then the
braid began to melt from the spool, suddenly the huge Tiagra reel
didn't seem so huge. Hundreds of metres- I have no idea how much-
disappeared in seconds, Simon backed down hard to allow me to
furiously wind as much braid as possible back, the deck of the boat
filling with water as the ocean swells burst over the transom
soaking all and sundry.
"You are now attached to the
fish of a lifetime mate!" shouted Tim in my ear over the roar
of the engines "So don't go and f**k it up!!!"
Having "fun" with an
pound Black Marlin on the line... Those shorts are magic.
"The never-ending, downward
spiral of misery, torment and depression that I attempt to pass off as some kind
of a life..."
After nine days of perfect
weather, it cut up a bit choppy before we set course back to port.
words of comfort and reassurance you need to hear when you're
already in up to your neck and panic station is just a short hop
around the corner. Time after time we got over the fish, and time
after time the irresistible force just steadily dragged more line from
At times nothing would move for minutes on end- just a
massive, immovable weight on the rod, lifting me from my backside in
the chair and onto my feet, trying to get another turn or two on the
reel, but finding it jammed solid against the broadside of the
Marlin, sweat running down chest and back, down the forehead and
stinging into the eyes. At least five times the outrigger tag passed
through the roller guides on the rod, signifying that the prize was
only some 120 feet away, only to watch it turn and go again, the tag
disappearing below the surface and yards of line in interest taken
by way of retribution. Torture as you realise you now have to wind
all that line back onto the reel! Eventually I realised that these
runs were getting shorter, and I knew that as much as my legs were
feeling the strain, the Marlin was feeling it more: I was going to
win the battle.
yet more attrition, the huge fish was within reach of the boat, Tim's
gloved hands reaching and grabbing the heavy leader, bringing it ever
closer, but again our adversary had other ideas. Tim hung on grimly as
the fish turned and made a bid for freedom again;
"Dump it!!" I shouted, in fear that he would be pulled clean
over the side, and this he did, just as the billfish pushed itself from
the water like a Polaris Missile not ten metres from the boat, although
so big, heavy and incredibly fat that it was unable to lift it's whole
body clear of the surface. My jaw dropped as I took in the vision in
front of me, the rest of the crew screaming various strengths of
expletive. I made the line back from the short run the fish had made,
Tim wired the fish up again for the third time, told me it was a caught
fish now, and asked if I wanted to tag the fish or just release it:
"Tag it if you can, but if you can't it don't matter- I just want
it to go back in one piece", and so it was decided that the fish
would be cut free immediately to make things as quick and easy as
possible. We didn't have a chance though, since the fish made one more
attempt at freedom, pulled out of Tim's grasp, and gained it's liberty
without our help, breaking free- no doubt due to some small nick of
damage to the line that had occurred boatside during the fight- after
one hour fifty minutes of hard conflict.
end of a long trip. Aaahhh, bless.
was all over. I unclipped from the rod and reel, and wobbled out of
the chariot, realising for the first time that I was completely done
in. Legs turned to jelly, hands, arms and ribs aching, soaked from
head to toe in saltwater spray and sweat. For some absurd reason,
the only thing I could say was "That'll do me for today boys".
"We'll give you at least 900
pounds for that mate", smiled Tim, shaking my hand, before I waddled off to sit alone in the air-conditioned cabin and
take stock of it all. Initially I felt pretty numb. In fact I felt
nothing at all. At the end of the day, as far as acts of angling skill go, I've
used more to catch a 3 pound Chub from the River Welland, and
without Tim, Simon and the boat I would have had no chance of even
encountering the creature, let alone hooking it and winding it to
the boat. But in terms of excitement, fear, adrenaline and pure
spectacle it would take some surpassing in all my days on the water.
I started to get a similar feeling to that which I had when I caught
my first thirty pound plus Pike (all those years ago). After all, no
matter what happens for the rest of my days, no one can take that
experience away from me. Similarly, I now know just what it feels like to have
900lbs of Black Marlin on the end of the line. And that will stay
with me forever, as will the pictures stored in my mind's eye of
that unbelievable fish taking the bait and lifting itself airborne.
awoke the following morning with a bit of an aching skull from too much
"Fighting Cock" (whisky, 51% proof- not to be confused
with "Cock Fighting" which was not allowed on board under
any circumstances, even after ten days at sea), and a body that felt
like it had been hit by a bus in my sleep. I had already told the
others that I wouldn't be fishing on the last day, and with Josh at
work on the Valkyrie, this gave Steve a seat in the
chariot all day in the hope that he too would encounter one of the
big girls. Feeling as I did, of that I was grateful. As it turned
out, the wind had sprung up to some 25 knots, making the waters of
the Linden bank a bit choppy for our final curtain call with the
Marlin. One hesitant fish was raised all day, which in the end
decided not to eat the bait, and the only other point of interest
being when we watched a large Hammerhead Shark home in on, and follow,
one of the skip-baits. It picked up the scent hundreds of metres
back from the bait, and just made a bee line straight up the trail.
Tim wound the bait up in order to tease it closer to the boat, which
it followed, but still it just sniffed and inspected the bait,
before finally ghosting off into the distance and disappearing into
the deep blue. Who says sharks are dumb eh?
When Simon gave the order to wind up
the baits that afternoon, signifying the end of the trip and the
beginning of the long haul back to port, I realised how lucky I'd
been to have experienced the whole voyage. The huge, spectacular
fish, the perfect tropical weather, and the vast, beautiful ocean
with the dazzling turquoise reef. Idling into the now familiar surroundings
of port Cairns as the sun set over the smoky backdrop of the far distant
hills, I felt like I'd just returned home from a truly memorable holiday.
Which I suppose I had really.
and before I sign off this instalment, I can't express enough thanks
to Tim and Simon for presenting the opportunity to take a place on a
trip I never thought I'd get to go on, and for looking after us
novices out there on the ocean. And a big thanks also to Josh and
Steve- both top blokes and great company. Cheers boys!
now that was a loooong story.